Alex Bea
December 19, 2019 09:19
I really wish I could rate my new home gym better. The staff is nice and the routes are pretty good (though often the starts are weirdly awkward compared to the rest of the route). The issue I can't fault anyone for too much is that it's simply a short, close-quarters gym. It's older, so this is understandable, however it doesn't make for great training or as fun climbs. I've tried recruiting people for some sport climbing, but despite the good number of routes with draws, the short height doesn't make for enticing sport climbing.
The other main issue is that every weekday evening feels like the gym is at least half an after-school program (which is sort of the case). There are several youth programs that span the week, and combined with the lack of spaciousness it can get very distracting. It's probably a good, consistent money-maker, so I can understand the motivation. As an adult climber it's disappointing that they seem to have chosen to really prioritize youth programs.
Add to all that the member pricing is inflated due to real estate pricing of the downtown bouldering gym--even if you're only interested in a roped gym. It's the only public roped gym in town, though, so unfortunately there aren't alternatives to balance it out.